Corn is a extremely popular meals in Brazilian delicacies, and prevails in June festivals throughout the nation and particularly within the Northeast, the place the custom of planting corn on Saint Joseph’s Day, March 19, to reap ripe earlier than Saint John’s, is powerful.
“My childhood reminiscences from June take me awake to this autumn season,” remembers chef Yuri Machado, who runs the Ca-Já restaurant, positioned within the northern zone of Recife.
The corn was grated on a grater produced from outdated oil cans with nails. It was time for hominy, pamonha, mugunzá, various kinds of desserts and so many different recipes, that we nonetheless eat so much at the moment and all year long. “
One in all these recipes has a particular place for the Machado household: it is the corn cake (see the complete recipe on the finish of the article) which Mrs. Bernadete Machado Gomes, from Berna, discovered to make along with her mom, Lourdes, and at the moment she reproduces for her youngsters, Yuri and Alan.
The cake has a assured presence at household occasions, particularly on particular events. “He was even a part of my brother’s grasp’s protection. Folks repeated, repeated, whereas we have been excited to know if the quantity the mom took can be sufficient.”
On this household’s model, the cake is made in a blender and takes contemporary corn and coconut, grated. “It is a extra moist cake, on a tray and minimize into squares. It isn’t a lot of a secret, but it surely’s love,” says the chef, whose approach perfected in well-known eating places mixes with the legacy of Bern delicacies.
My mom has by no means considered herself as a gifted cook dinner, she could be very perfectionist. I’ve at all times appreciated the meals she makes, but it surely was not till I turned knowledgeable chef that I spotted her greatness within the kitchen. “
Yuri Machado was born in Aracaju and moved to Recife in 2006 to work on the Federal Rural College of Pernambuco. “I at all times needed to throw myself into the world, and being a chef allowed me to try this.”
Throughout faculty, he was an intern at eating places resembling Ponte Nova, probably the greatest within the capital of Pernambuco, and took benefit of his trip to maneuver on – for instance, he did an internship at DOM, by Alex Atala, in São Paulo, and with Rafael, in Lima, Peru, and spent a winter season at eating places in Vail, close to Aspen, USA.
After graduating, Yuri traveled for one yr with the Cirque du Soleil squad’s cooking group in Brazil and labored for 2 years in Outback, the place he saved sufficient cash for a brand new season in america. Then he went to New York, and from restaurant to restaurant he ended up going via star kitchens like Glasserie, in Brooklyn, and Casa Mono, by Mario Batali.
I may have stayed for much longer in New York, however my brother, who has a level in hospitality, requested me to open a restaurant right here. I felt it was time to return. ” In 2017, Ca-Já (Rua Carneiro Vilela, 648, Aflitos, Recife) was thus born, a restaurant full of affection put in in a big home with a yard.
Ca-Já is called after a homonymous track by Caetano Veloso, and in its essence bears a lot of the chef’s mom. They’re creations of Bern, such because the cake recipe that comes with the espresso and the model of the banoffe pie, listed among the many desserts as bernoffe.
My kitchen is formed by all my expertise, together with household. I exploit the strategies and at all times keep in mind every part I’ve discovered. “
On Mondays, a day without work at Ca-Já, Yuri and Alan have an appointment on the agenda: lunch at their dad and mom’ house, within the Rosarinho space, additionally within the northern zone of Recife. Along with Berna and her father, Lino Gomes Ferreira, from Maranhão, they cook dinner, pray a prayer, eat, have a chat and naturally share the dishes.
The menu for the conferences is normally primarily based on orders from the brothers, with the best to even a want checklist stored on the fridge door.
She makes on a regular basis meals and I eat from her kitchen, from recipes that take me again to my childhood reminiscences. “
We had no behavior or cash for lunch exterior the home. I keep in mind quite a lot of our household lunches. On Sundays it was the day to go to the seashore. Different days, “after I felt lazy”, in line with Yuri, Berna made a sun-dried meat in bottle butter with flour.
It is such a easy factor, however absurdly scrumptious. In the present day I understand the significance of this dish, what cassava means for Brazilian meals “
Corn Cake Secrets and techniques
Within the following recipe, Berna makes it non-obligatory so as to add a number of spoonfuls of cornmeal to the dough, in case it will get too skinny. “This helps to cut back the oven time, however I don’t normally use it, as a result of it’s going to additionally disturb the feel,” he reveals. In response to her, the tip is to purchase the firmer corn. The cake will take longer to bake, round 45 minutes, however will probably be even softer. It’s prepared when the floor is golden and the dough is agency.
My mom’s corn cake
Recipe from the Machado household: Bernadete discovered it from his mom, Lourdes, and taught it to his son Yuri Machado, a chef on the Ca-Já restaurant in Recife
- 12 inexperienced corn (agency however not laborious)
- 2 grated contemporary coconuts
- 4 tablespoons melted butter
- 3 entire eggs
- 2 teacups sugar
- 3 tablespoons nice cornmeal (non-obligatory)
- 1 pinch of salt
- Peel the inexperienced corn, take away all straw and cords (hair).
- Grate the flasks and move the grated corn via a rough strainer to take away a number of the peel from the corn kernels. Reserve.
- Take away the coconut milk: use a clear dish towel and squeeze out the coconut to separate the thick milk; then put it in a blender with a little bit water to extract the best coconut milk. Get them organized.
- In a blender, beat entire eggs, sugar, melted butter (which should not be scorching) and the thinnest coconut milk (approx. 500 ml).
- Add the contents of the blender to the sifted corn mass. If the combination is just too runny, add 1, 2 or 3 tablespoons of cornmeal to thicken it a bit.
- Add 1 cup (tea) of the extracted thick coconut milk to the dough and blend. The ultimate texture of the dough is extra fluid.
- Straightforward to fry in a roast or type of holes greased with butter, in a preheated kind to 180 ° C.
- When the dough begins to dry, unfold pure coconut milk all around the dough utilizing a spoon. Do that 2 or 3 occasions, till the cake is agency and golden.
The enjoyment of the June festivals and their tastes and traditions is within the Arraiá season, a sequence of reviews and on-line sequence that you may observe till July, on the location www.uol.com.br/ nossa, on YouTube and on the social networks of @nossa_uol (Instagram, Fb and twitter).