The four denim trends for autumn-winter 2023

As part of the latest edition of the Kingspins denim show, which took place April 20-21 in Amsterdam, Denim Dudes owner Amy Leverton unveiled four denim trends set to mark the Fall/Winter 2023 season.

As soon as you entered the event, an exhibition presented a selection of silhouettes that illustrated each trend. A new concept for a new edition of the parade: this year, Kingpins had invited some of its exhibitors to participate in the installation, giving them the opportunity to exhibit garments that they had created and developed.

The trends explored by Amy Leverton reflect the post-pandemic mindset of our society. They evoke the desire to escape, an optimism that could be described as “post-apocalyptic” and the desire to protect our planet.

(From left) Image: Vetements AW22, Isabel Marant AW22, Balenciaga AW22 – all courtesy of CatwalkPictures


This first trend is closely linked to the growing popularity of the Balenciaga universe, and evolves in the blurring of the boundaries between the real and the digital world. It is based on the influence that the digital world can have on the physical world. The term “simulacrum” already embodies this concept, which is defined by the imitation of reality. This trend comes as some brands are beginning to take an interest in the possibilities the digital world brings, whether through partnerships with digital tech players, “meta marketing,” or the launch of augmented reality collections or non-fungible tokens (NFTs). ) .

Most of the silhouettes included in this trend work to protect the body from the outside world: rounded shapes and technical clothing with exaggerated silhouettes show a way of defiance. Modernizing past styles is also very much in evidence: there’s a strong comeback of low-rise jeans and the acid-wash techniques that were hugely successful in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

The colors of this trend evolve between dark tones – a nod to the end of the world that it evokes – and saturated colors such as electric blue and bright orange.

(From left) Image: Etro AW22, Christian Siriano AW22, Marni AW22 – all courtesy of CatwalkPictures


Similarly, the “outsiders” trend refers to post-apocalyptic themes. Unlike a darker experience of the digital world, however, it finds its foundation in optimism and a connection to nature. Craftsmanship, local production and techniques from agriculture are an integral part of this trend, which favors garments that have meaning for those who wear them.

This aesthetic is very similar to a trend seen last year, “goblincore”, characterized by eco-responsible clothing and the rejection of capitalist systems.

This new trend pays special attention to the natural treatment of products. This care can be found in the colors, including trellis green and shades of indigo blue. Tones contrasted by the presence of neon orange and bright yellow, which breathe new life into hippie culture.

(From left) Image: Blumarine AW22, Labrum London AW22, Matty Bovan AW22 – all courtesy of CatwalkPictures


Responding to the need for consumers to fill a void created by the pandemic, this trend is rooted in a desire for escapism, with clothes that seem to reflect the emotions of those who wear them. Much like the “dressing on dopamine” trend (dressing completely in color), this trend evokes a lot of playfulness and vibrancy through assertive stylistic choices and bold color combinations.

This trend is partially inspired by the legacy of Virgil Abloh, who always encouraged young designers to have fun with fashion. His influence can be seen in cartoon-inspired designs, hand-finished finishes, recycled textiles and psychedelic surfaces, all characteristics that sum up the vibrancy of this trend.

This trend is conducive to experimentation, the expression of personality and creativity. Bright yellows, blues and oranges intertwine and offer so many combination possibilities to last all year.

(From left) Image: GCDS AW22, Mark Fast AW22, Molly Goddard AW22 – all courtesy of CatwalkPictures


Described as one of the most commercial trends of the season, the ‘soft’ trend takes a more philanthropic approach to fashion and puts a particular spotlight on incremental growth companies and products with low environmental impact. The authenticity of the discourse is essential for this trend that encourages brands to safeguard ancestral knowledge, to promote different cultures and traditions, for the protection of the planet and populations.

As its name suggests, the ‘softness’ trend revolves around a pastel color palette and autumn tones, with a focus on raw materials such as raw denim and natural dyes.

Like the rest of the trends, upcycling is one of its main characteristics, but here the process is enhanced with sought-after techniques such as shibori (Japanese tie and dye technique) and hand embroidery. The silhouettes correspond to the calm and serenity that the trend evokes through wraparound shapes, knee-length falls and updated workwear.

This article originally appeared on It was translated and edited in French by Maxime Der Nahabédian.

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