Urwerk – UR-220 Red Gold Edition – Style and trend

“…And it’s in the box!” Today, the last representative of the 220 collection is assembled in the URWERK workshops. This UR-220 Red Gold is bright, extravagant. Its case has been forged in 4N gold and its textured strap is immaculate white. A decidedly very eighties vibe.

UR-220 Red Gold Edition © watchmaking

Let’s set the scene. Florida. Palm trees stand out against a cloudless sky. Flamingos frolic in the sun. Idyllic landscape. And then everything speeds up. Synthetic music imposes a frenetic rhythm. Sequence shot at water level. We are in the marina, the sailboat is a resplendent white; an alligator acts as a guard dog…

For fans of the 80s, the references are obvious: Sonny Crockett and Ricardo Tubbs; Miami Vice. It’s the golden skin of the hero cops, their immaculate suits and Pepsodent smiles. The personification of success. Images that marked the young years of an entire generation. With two predominant colors: bright gold and pristine white. “Gold and white. It may seem like an unlikely marriage,” says Martin Frei, artist and co-founder of URWERK. “But the combo resonates deep inside of me like a happy memory. I see the cool heroes from my teenage years that we all wanted to be. They were beautiful, nothing could resist them. They chased the criminals in immaculate, flowing suits, Ray Ban Wayfarer 5022 lenses on their noses, loose hair, and gold on their wrists. That was really the iconic image of the 80s. And to conclude with a laugh: “And from this panoply I was able to acquire the sunglasses. Essential! »

UR-220 Red Gold Edition

UR-220 Red Gold Edition © watchmaking

Felix Baumgartner insists on the contrast between timeless gold and the modernity of rubber: “This UR-220 Red Gold, which marks the end of a collection, is a strong piece, with a strong character. Play with the front and striking contrasts. A great way to set the mood and finish on this line with a clear bias, an unconditional wow! »

For the last time, let’s go back to the features that made the 220 collection so successful.

control instruments

For once, let’s start with the back of the watch. The case back of the UR-220 is the great witness to the evolution of the 200 module line. It bears one of the tracers of the URWERK watchmaking style, the Oil Change. URWERK returns to its first love and reinstates, after years of absence, a movement running time indicator. This information, unique in its kind and which has long enriched models like the UR-110, has undergone notable changes.

In the UR-220, the Oil Change takes the form of a digital indicator, whose unit is the month, indicated on two adjacent reels. The start of the counter is triggered by the watch user. You need to remove the protective pin and engage the push button on the back of the UR-220. From that moment on, the counters are activated and show the operating time of the mechanism in months. After 39 months, 3 years and 3 months, a service is recommended. At the end of it, the counter is reset and the pin is replaced by the URWERK teams. “It is a digital counter, which could just be an alignment of units, a cold measurement, but it is actually the witness of an attachment. The oil change counts the hours that the UR-220 has spent on your wrist. It makes visible all the energy you have given him by raising him conscientiously”, says Felix Baumgartner, co-founder of URWERK.

UR-220 Red Gold Edition

UR-220 Red Gold Edition © watchmaking

on the carousel

The UR-220 features a satellite display complication, patented by URWERK. In fact, the wandering hours are displayed on three rotating cubes. Each in turn fit into a hollow minute hand. Together they travel 120 degrees along the timer before, when the hour is up, the hand makes a big jump back to index “0” to accommodate the next cube. This retrograde minute remains without a doubt the most impressive existing in a wristwatch. In an effort to gain power and speed, all the faces of the minute hand have been fretworked.

UR-220 Red Gold Edition

UR-220 Red Gold Edition © watchmaking

This ultra-fast retrograde system is based on three key elements: The central axis guarantees the perfect stability of the mechanism. Cast in ruby, it is the rock on which the entire complication rests. A cylindrical marine chronometer spiral-type spring running along this axis generates the necessary tension for retrograde motion. The atypical minute hand, a true fairing of the hour block, shows extraordinary measurements. Its ultra-precise cut has tolerances of one hundredth of a millimeter. This metallic fairing has a total weight of 0.302g for dream measurements (8.03mm wide x 22.29mm long x 7.30mm high). Forged in aluminium, its perfect balance is ensured by a brass counterweight. A double coaxial star-shaped cam governs the retrograde movement. It is its gear and then its rotation that will define the trajectory of the minute hand.

UR-220 Red Gold Edition

UR-220 Red Gold Edition © watchmaking

Other information present on the dial is the indication of the power reserve that can be read on two sub-dials. The autonomy of the movement is indicated by these two indicators of 24 hours each. During manual winding, it is the indicator on the right that will be the first to report winding of the mainspring. Once you have reached your maximum, the left indicator will follow. This power reserve divided into two “deposits” is made up of 83 proprietary mechanical elements, proof of the complexity of its production.

The art of detail

As no detail has been overlooked here, the typeface of the UR-220 indices has been completely redesigned by Martin Frei. The hour and minute numbers are even sharper.

UR-220 Red Gold Edition

UR-220 Red Gold Edition © watchmaking

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