What’s behind the scenes of a bridal collection?

Paolo Lanzi

What’s behind a collection of wedding dresses† A lot of work. What we see on the catwalk is the result of a long period of concrete design and realization of the collection. We saw it in recent days in Milan and Barcelona where the latest bridal trends for 2023 were presented. Wonderful shows and presentations in the studio that made us dream and reflect on the infinite power of beauty that comes from emotions and moods experienced or imagined by those who create these masterpiece dresses. for some stylists we asked them to tell about the new themes and sources of inspiration of their collections. Enjoy reading!

Across. A model from the Helena collection by Maison Signore that made its debut in Milan on the catwalk of Sì Sposaitalia Collezioni.

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1

Antonio Riva Milan – Tribute of love

“I deliberately went against the grain, I contradicted myself,” the stylist says ironically. “For years I’ve tried to deconstruct, simplify, slip and now I’ve reconstructed all my sartorial architectures”. With the complicity of rigid, important, self-supporting fabrics such as mikado, the designer has re-sculpted very Antonio Riva dresses: high-necked, rigorous and geometric, traced by swirls, through waves of ruffles like romantic storm surges, through lines culminating in a perfect curve , almost a modern capital. The color of the peony dominates for the ceremony. Both collections are dedicated to the mother.

The new collection is based on the principle of love for details, for simplicity that can sometimes even be complicated. Here’s the challenge: to make a bride feel extraordinary without dressing her up in a giant skirt. Beautiful fabrics, strategically placed points of light, a tailored and impeccable fit represent the new identity of the contemporary dress. Precious silks, laces, important sleeves that “dress up”, flowing silhouettes. A perfection compatible with the wearer.

3

Elisabetta Polignano – Eclectic Mood

Evolution is the name of Elisabetta Polignano’s collection that takes a leap forward and interprets the desire for a modern dress, which can present itself in a different way at the end of the ceremony, at the party, and which can also be valid afterwards , change just a few connotations. A dress that composes and dissects, almost like a red carpet, with great versatility and contemporary details: such as the monogrammed belt and the sculpted sleeves, wearable and detachable.

4

Elisabetta Delogu – Living Art

«I fill the bodies as if they were paintings,» says Elisabetta Delogu enthusiastically. «I almost feel an empty horror and a storm of embellishments in the silk organza. For me the trend is aristocratic, chaste, sensual, with the use of the nude tone, very feminine and with a vintage touch. As in the nineteenth century, I rounded the edges of the bustiers so that they rest better on the waist, I rediscovered the velvet straps, the capes in antique lace, I created large and intrusive bouquets, with a three-dimensional effect. I was not afraid to give an almost faded look, a certain patina of experience, to take away that too new air. I liked to build, using radial pleats. I made new suggestions using elements from the history of costume ».

5

Carlo Pignatelli – Night & Day

“We’ve always thought about building a bridal collection, which we then declined in other colors for the evening as well,” says Francesco Pignatelli. “Now we’ve reversed the point of view and created an evening collection that, made in white, becomes bridal. A way of working chosen because we are aware of how much the canons have changed and how the wedding dress has come out of that “out of date” concept that has characterized it for years. For men, on the other hand, we have given the green light to color. The formal is
mixed with street style. Yes, in cheerful shades: the blue of the sky and the sea, the green of nature, peacock, fuchsia, orange and
shades of the earth, without forgetting the great classics: black and white ».

6

Le Spose di Giò – Smooth touch

“We interpret the return to the romantic,” says Chiara Gatti, head of the brand. The attitude is less formal and more spontaneous, more natural. Today we get married in alternative places, unusual and special places, and therefore there is a need for a more flowing dress, less wrapped, without stiffness. The time of sexy at all costs has been over for a while, the dress is generally more dressy, making the fabric better. At the moment, there is a lot of attention from brides on this topic: many ask us whether the dresses are made with Italian or French materials. Taffetas are favorite, shapes that are a bit noisy, “papery” that add sound and charm to the models ».

7

Peter Langner – Two in one

“I’ve created a focused collection, without spreading, focusing on its uniqueness,” says the designer. « Hardly any bride wants to buy two dresses now, but the need to change her look between the ceremony and the party remains. So I created 35 extraordinary dresses, sheath dresses to add overskirts to create a surprise effect: two equally important dresses for two different moments, but in reality one dress. Macramé lace interprets it, but also a new search for fabrics and the idea of ​​​​combining them ».

8

Simone Marulli – Creative Matches

«I want to go back to the essence of fashion,» says Simone Marulli. «No deception, no special effects, no exaggerated widths, but a substantial beauty, made of Italian silk, of precious, light and at the same time important fabrics. Flowing lines, lingering, the idea of ​​a double dress that lives twice and yet stays true to itself, simply by loosening or wearing a piece differently. I don’t like strong contrasts, but the search for harmony and the sweetness of different elements that harmonize together ».

9

Poesie Sposa – Romantic Romance

The new Bride Poems collection is called Vita, a tribute to Vita Sackville-West to which Virginia Woolf dedicated the novel Orlando, a journey that traverses the centuries of English culture with characters passing from woman to man in a story continuum. And actually the clothes are called: page 1, 2 3 … red thread: harnesses, belts, harnesses, belts, necklaces that are the thread of history and that this year will rediscover the value of pearls. A mix between masculine and feminine that we also find in the “striped liners” that are now hidden and now obvious.

10

Emiliano Bengasi – New Royal

The queens. This is the name of his brides Emiliano Bengasi, who celebrates the return of the mikado: full, important called to interpret special bodies that, well combined, could live even after the big day. “We’ve decided to play the mash-up map, to build a modular and demountable collection, despite the royalties. Lace, lace, Chantilly lace for different dresses that also choose the color: black with a touch of red, mint, powder pink and of course also white ».

11

Maison Signore – Sensual notes

“We wanted to give our four collections more identity,” said Luigi Signore, president of the brand. The Isabella line is inspired by Isabella del Balzo, who was queen of the Kingdom of Naples, if only for a few years. The dresses evoke Renaissance details, such as the prominent sleeves and showy collars. Vittoria, on the other hand, thinks of a romantic woman who desires grace and freshness. Helena is a city bride, unconventional, surprising, while Sofia is a tribute to the Mediterranean spirit: sunny, generous with some sensual notes ».

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